My question to myself.

Before I set off on the trip, you will remember that I met a lady on the train who told me about Mandela sanctioning the church street bombings. I asked myself (and you) if Mandela and the ANC were right to use violence to get results.

I have been pondering this thought for a while now and I just can not answer it. The problem is, that I can not accept violence as a form of protest; no matter what. I have tried to consider what I would do if faced with a a similar situation and I can not tell you. I appreciate that the protests were originally peaceful and that they turned violent at the hands of the authorities but......

I do not feel that it is my right to judge conditions that I have no experience of. Only those who lived through the times can judge and by that I mean both the ANC, its supporters and those white people who were also harmed in the fighting.

The actions of those who used violence belong firmly in the past; I hope that the New South Africa builds on peace and not a victory won by war.

Emma's Video!

A short video tour!

15: Constitution Hill and COSATU

Visiting the national heritage site of Constitution Hill, it becomes plain to see how South Africans' have transformed a brutal history into a beacon of hope for a the nation’s future. Our first stop was to visit the site of the old prison, Number Four, where great legends such as Mandela and Ghandi were imprisoned. Despite the relative dilapidation, to witness such conditions could not fail to  mark one's soul. The remnants of the prison, particularly the cell with bars (where difficult prisoners were hosed with water and left, rain or shine, summer or winter) and the lashing chair (last used in 1983) illustrate levels of institutionalised cruelty that belong firmly in the past. White and black and coloured prisoners were kept separate and again, as at Robben Island, had differing conditions in which they existed. Even the workers in the prison experienced different conditions; black workers remember feeling more like prisoners than free men.

The Constitutional Court, established in 1994, provides great contrast to the prison, it stands out as a place of beauty, peace and justice. The door to the court is carved with the 27 constitutional rights of the New South Africa, in each of the 11 national languages and even in sign language. These rights can be found here.

It starts like this:

We, the people of South Africa, recognise the injustices of our past; honour those who suffered for justice and freedom in our land; respect those who have worked to build and develop our country; and believe that South Africa belongs to all who live in it, united in our diversity. We therefore, through our freely elected representatives, adopt this Constitution as the supreme law of the Republic so as to-Heal the divisions of the past and establish a society based on democratic values, social justice and fundamental human rights; Lay the foundations for a democratic and open society in which government is based on the will of the people and every citizen is equally protected by law; Improve the quality of life of all citizens and free the potential of each person; and Build a united and democratic South Africa able to take its rightful place as a sovereign state in the family of nations. May God protect our people. Nkosi Sikelel' iAfrika. Morena boloka setjhaba sa heso.God seën Suid-Afrika. God bless South Africa.Mudzimu fhatutshedza Afurika. Hosi katekisa Afrika.

Pretty amazing stuff!


On entry to the court, the eyes are met with a riot of colour, art is unashamedly everywhere, in the form of sculpture, mosaic and beading. South Africa and its constitution are celebrated in the fabric of the building; blending the old ways and the new ways, never forgetting, but moving forward. An awe inspiring sight.

We also visited the women’s prison, where conditions were a little, but not much better than in number four. The displays were informative, with exhibits such as the clothes they were arrested in. One thing that stuck with me from the women’s prison was the indignity they were subjected to, such as the lack of provision for adequate sanitary protection and even underwear.

COSATU

The Congress of South African Trade Unions (COSATU) was launched in December 1985 after four years of unity talks between unions opposed to apartheid and committed to a non-racial, non-sexist and democratic South Africa. At our launch we represented less than half a million workers organised in 33 unions. We currently have more than two million workers, of whom at least 1.8 million are paid up.

One of the things they work towards is:

International worker solidarity - International solidarity is the lifeblood of trade unionism - particularly in the era of multinational companies. COSATU maintains links with a range of national and international centres. We are committed to building link s with unions in the newly industrialised countries. New international conditions open possibilities for a unified union movement.

As a member of Prospect trade union, I appreciate fully the need for solidarity in numbers. At present, COSATU are working towards progressive policy in Swaziland. Our meeting focussed on the needs of the Swazi people and what we at home can do to help. They would like us to encourage national and international discussions on Swaziland, so that tourists to the country can see with open eyes the paradise and the hell. They are also short of resources; so anything we can do to help will be appreciated, not only donating money, but offering our resources; be that t'shirt printing or just a letter of solidarity. I hope that by working with ACTSA, we can find a way to support the amazing work these people do. It is not an easy ride; in recent days many activists have been arrested and forcibly removed from Swaziland; deported under invasion laws.

The meeting with COSATU was cut short, as we had to get to the airport in order to get back to Blighty. My head is swimming from the sheer amount of information I have taken in. I fear that life will never be the same again.

14: Southern Africa Trust, High Comission and Zimbabwe.

It has been a really long day today. I will keep this quick, as it is currently two in the morning and I can't keep my eyes open. 

Today we had a very informative meeting with the Southern Africa Trust. They have some amazing Corporate Social Responsibility things happening. We also met with the British High Commission of Southern Africa and the Zimbabwe Exiles Forum.  I met a Zimbabwean woman who has is afraid to go outside....she's been a victim of racism, she's been raped five times.

1) Southern Africa Trust

The Southern Africa Trust supports processes to deepen and widen participation in policy dialogue with a regional impact on poverty. It:

• is an independent, regional, non-profit agency registered in South Africa

• supports organisations and processes with regional impact

• supports deeper and wider engagement in policy dialogue

• supports public policy development to overcome poverty

• supports voices of the poor to be heard in policy dialogue

In a very very basic form, SAT is big on stakeholder engagement and education. Fab!! They are running some brilliant projects aimed to tackle xeno[phobia, one of which is an excahange programme between communities in Southern Africa and Mozambique. They send teenagers over to live with a family for three months, so that they are able to face full cultural immersion and come back having overcome fears and smashed misconceptions; this is then fed into the community and will hopefully spread.

SAT are also running a project called "Business for Development" which does this:

Provide a platform for a united and powerful voice on the role of business in developing sustainable, market-based solutions to poverty challenges;

• Call on governments to create the necessary framework conditions for companies to maximize their contribution to development; and

• Extend an invitation to governments and other stakeholders to partner with business in the common quest for a more inclusive and sustainable future

2) British High Commission

The BHC in Pretora was a pretty ace meeting; it was good to hear about Southern Africa from the point of view of officials. The chaps we saw had some interesting facts to give; for example the fact that for every 7 seats in each world cup stadium,14,000 school libraries could have been stocked. I did not see anything to back that up, but hell, what a statistic! Before we jump to conclusions, South Africa deserved the praise they got for the World Cup and it has put the country firmly on the map. I do not believe it is our role to judge or even comment on how another country spends its money. Perhaps I would have done it differently, perhaps not. If you are still not convinced, think about the relative poverty we have in the UK, think of the unemployed, the NHS underfunding, the tax rises.....now, think about us hosting the Olympics in 2012! A spotlight has been shone on Southern Africa and that can only be good from an investment point of view!

3) Zimbabwe Exiles Forum

"The Zimbabwe Exiles Forum is a Southern African non-political, non-profit and non-partisan organisation with an eye on the future of Zimbabwe. It was founded in 2003 in South Africa on the premise that political change that will usher in a democratic dispensation where human dignity and civil liberties are sacrosanct in Zimbabwe is inevitable.

ZEF is however concerned that little or nothing is being done to prepare for this change. In this regard ZEF is engaged in research, documentation, advocy, lobbying and litigation around issues of human rights in Zimbabwe."

Meeting with the ZEF was inspirational. Here are people who are unable to go back to Zim for fear of arrest or worse. The things we do not think about are things like the fact that these guys can not go home; so, when one's mother dies, they can not bury her. Things we take for granted, like hospital treatment are not afforded to these exiles living in South Africa; they are numbers, not people. Although the authorities should medically treat exiles, we all know how systems are easily bent to someone's own preference. This results in the exiles living in constant fear. We spoke to one lady who admitted to being terrified living in South Africa. Because the rate of rape is so high, she is too afraid to go anywhere but to and from work; she knows that if she were to be attacked, she could not guarantee medical help. That must be one hell of a thing to live with. The ZEF is campaigning to ensure medial help is given to those seeking asylum.

The ZEF is also campaigning for those in exile to be given the vote in their home elections; this happens elsewhere in the world, so why not for them? Good point; how can a country ever get better if those who want to change it are exiled and can have no official input?

Knowing racism as we do, it comes as no suprise that those in exile face racism and xenophobia on a daily basis, they have lived in a country where officials have burned homes and raped thousands and they come to a country where they are abused and exploited.

Let us hope that those in the ZEF keep working to attain rights for their kin.

Stuff goes down in Swaziland.

Stuff going down......Oh my life! Swaziland. The other day, we met with a pro democracy organisation from Swaziland (remember country with the mad king and the terrorism?). I was lucky enough to sit next to one of the organisations youth leaders. We had a lovely evening, he was an inspirational man as he has been through so much in his short years and continues to fight for democracy. It is not for me to tell his story on the Internet. If you want to know, ask me when you see me. Anyway, said gent was a real giggle and even spent time trying to help me learn how to sing "Knocking on Heavens Door" in his native tongue and he did it without too much giggling at the fact I can not make the clicking noises required. (Listen to Ladysmith do it and you will see my problems).

My singing buddy is now in prison. He was arrested today, alongside 39 others. You see, next week is a week of pro-democracy action in Swaziland. Freedom of association is supposedly legal in Swaziland, but today we can see that clearly, that is not the case. Those native to Swaziland have been imprisoned and those who have arrived from other countries for the action, have been charged with invasion. Seriously; Invasion.

Please have a look at ACTSA's campaign in Swaziland and get involved; just fill in the form.

SWAZILAND CAMPAIGN.

An African King, who abuses his kinand takes whatever he is able,lives in a land, hot and drybut politically unstable.
The people smile though times are hardand although they do their bestthe rich young King with his many wives
comes and takes the rest.
The African King who abuses his kinis not known for his kindness
and the Police brutality shown to the peopleis in the name of His Royal Highness.
In this country, you may not own landfor it belongs to the stateand with democracy as we know it bannedthe situation will not abate.
In this place are courageous peoplewho for freedom will risk their livesbut terrorists they will be brandedif at work they ask for a rise.
The H.I.V rate is massive here
and there is scant provision for educationbut the people in this hot dry land
are fiercely proud of their nation.
So what can we do, to help the causefrom our homes so far away?
Publicise, report and campaignfor freedom in Swaziland one day.

13: Big Business doing its bit?

Okay, so today we spent the day with Coca Cola. Before you start screaming in horror at the fact, hear me out. Although Coca Cola have a somewhat shady reputation globally, in Africa they appear to be doing their bit.

The Coca Cola Africa Foundation.

Established by the Company in 2001, The Coca-Cola Africa Foundation (TCCAF) is the entity that coordinates our corporate social investment programs and implements community initiatives in Africa . The Replenish Africa Initiative (RAIN) is the Foundation's flagship water program and is the umbrella under which all future water programs will fall. Launched in 2009, RAIN is a public-private partnership made possible through a six-year, $30 million commitment from The Coca-Cola Company. The initiative will provide sustainable, clean water sources, hygiene education and sanitation services to millions of people throughout Africa.

The Foundation also supports many other community initiatives throughout Africa, including HIV/AIDS & malaria prevention, access to education, job creation and humanitarian assistance.

Diepsloot; the township where we were today.

The outreach H.I.V and S.T.I education program at work.

This morning, we spent with a Coca Cola funded project called the Olive Leaf Foundation, with some inspirational people who are working in their community in Deipsloot. The OLF receives funding from several organisations, including Coca Cola. Diepsloot is a township to the North West of Jo'berg; the population is indeterminate due to the rapidly expanding squatter camps on the outskirts, but a conservative estimate would be 300,000 people. OLF currently have five projects underway;

1) The provision of basic education on H.I.V and sexually transmitted infections.

2) Volunteering for testing

3) Orphaned and vulnerable children

4) Granny Project

5) Gender based violence.

Today, we got involved with the project on H.I.V and S.T.I's. When I say involved, I mean that the OLF were happy to take us out in their community and engage with people in order to educate them about the dangers of unprotected sex. Basically, the main educator had a book with very graphic images of what can happen to you and did impromptu talks to anyone who would listen. It was truly fabulous to be a part of it, standing in a Shebeen, watching the mainly male audience recoil in horror at what could happen. After the talk ended, the audience were invited to a workshop at their local centre, which would aim to discuss and educate the community on attitudes towards sex. The transmission of H.I.V in the region is a very real concern and education is an absolute must if the situation is ever going to change. The workshop was well attended and was set to be very interesting. Sadly due to time constraints we had to leave before it had finished, but it was nonetheless fascinating and is an undoubtedly valuable service in the community.

In the afternoon, we went to the Coca Cola bottling plant, where we heard all sorts of useful facts, but unfortunately there was not anyone there who could answer the ethical and environmental questions posed. I did find out though, that in Africa, Coca Cola fund a project called RAIN - Replenish Africa Initiative. The RAIN project is funded with $30 million of Coca Cola's money. It has the goal of providing at least two million people in Africa with access to clean water, launch over 100 water programs including healthy watershed, sanitation and hygiene programs, contribute to sustainability of water resources across Africa and provide people with sanitation and hygiene education by 2015. 

Another thing Coke are doing is sponsoring the international coastal cleanup (woooooo). Here's the spiel:

In 2008, Coca-Cola launched a multi-year partnership with Ocean Conservancy through a $1 million pledge to support the International Coastal Cleanup (ICC). The Ocean Conservancy is a non-profit, environmental advocacy organization that promotes healthy ocean ecosystems and opposes practices that threaten ocean life. The organization began in 1986, and Coca-Cola has supported global Cleanup efforts for 15 years.

This is the 25th anniversary of the International Coastal Cleanup, which is the world's largest single-day volunteer effort to eradicate litter and debris from the world's beaches, inland waterways and oceans. In addition to debris removal, the Cleanup includes a data collection effort by which volunteers record the specific types of debris recovered, providing insight into marine pollution. The data is compiled and analyzed, and a report is published the following spring.

Last year alone, nearly 42,000 Coca-Cola system associates, their friends and families in 32 markets around the world participated, contributing nearly 265,000 hours of volunteer time. And, the entire Cleanup effort resulted in all most 500,000 volunteers in 108 countries collecting more than 7.4 million pounds of trash.

I've signed up to take part....... perhaps some of my friends and colleagues will too........?

We have all heard the stories about Coke in Columbia and India, but I reckon that in Africa, they are doing a little bit of good. I don't know about the damage they do here.

12: Beer, guitairs and apartheid.

Beer and guitars. Both things quite dear to my heart. Why, I hear you ask, would I call this blog, of the day I visited the Apartheid museum after beer and guitars?

Wait and see......

A brief journey through time: (I'm hoping that I managed to make sense of an entire museum in so few words...)

50,000 years ago, the African Bushmen lived in Southern Africa; hunter gatherers living off the land, making little impact on their surroundings. Over time, the Khoisan people began painting their history; Bantu speaking farmers from the North came to settle in the area as it was rich in natural resources and these had the skills to work with iron and gold. As the newcomers grew in number, the pressure on the land became more and more, until the people began to fight each other. After some time, white settlers came the the region, armed with muskets. The San people fought the settlers and lost and eventually the San dispersed and disappeared, becoming people of the mist.

In the 17th century, Europeans arrived at the Cape, bringing with them slaves from places as far flung as Indonesia. In 1846, the British arrived on the Cape and became involved in a series of frontier wars with the previous European settlers. Over 1000 people were killed; when the Chief of the local tribe went to the British to ask for peace, he was taken hostage, shot and then his body mutilated.

With the advent of such battles, the Boer settlers moved away from the Cape towards Jo'berg, giving their reasons for moving as the loss of land and the British abolition of slavery. Diamonds were discovered at Kimberley, bringing with them the wealth and the insatiable appetite for prospecting. 1876, gold was discovered in Jo'berg, which led to a need for labour in the newly established mines. Black people and migrant workers were set to work in the mines, as a cheap supply of labour. The government at the time introduced measures that would force more and more Africans to mine labour, including taxes that only Africans would have to pay, for example hut tax and poll tax. Some Chiefs refused to pay the taxes, which led to them and their people being forced to live in remote places and facing starvation. Some were killed.

In 1899, the greed conflicts led the Boer people to go to war against the British in a war where black South Africans fought with us.; 20,000 died. It is at this point that we find that the British were responsible for the first concentration camps; filling areas with captured Boer women and children, where they faced starvation and tens of thousands died. In 1902, the Boer asked for peace. In 1910, the African National Congress (ANC) was formed to fight for the disenfranchised Africans.

In 1913, the government introduced the Land Act, which forced Africans to live in reserves; essentially took away their farm land and left them destitute (unless of course they went to the mines).This left many displaced Africans, who flocked into the city of Jo'berg to find work..... The Land Act was brutal on its own, more so when you consider the fact that with no right to land, those who died often had difficulty being buried.

Following the Land Act, there were so many people flocking to the cities that the authorities became worried that their fragile power would become swamped by Africans, so they began introducing legislation which would prevent this happening. In 1922, the Native Urban Areas Act was passed, which meant that the city slums were cleared and that there were separate locations around the country for Africans to live. The influx of Africans into areas resulted into the Pass system being created; (previously mentioned at Langa) which meant that people needed to carry a pass which stated where they were allowed and had to be produced when the Police asked for it. The system of apartheid was written into law and people were classified in terms of colour. One of the "scientific" tests used was the pencil test; if a pencil was put in your hair and stayed there, you were black. Apartheid was a brutal reality and the things that have stuck with me the most are the fact that the Government did not allow black people to drink alcohol until 1938; when they eventually relaxed the laws, they brewed a 2% proof beer specifically for black people called Bantu Beer; it was found in 1995 that this beer contained sterilising agents that would make people infertile; the Government was systematically abusing people's human rights in every way. For the record, the people responsible were given amnesty and those affected have not had justice. Another fact that struck me, was that if anyone dared to pick up a guitar and play it in public, they could be arrested for public disorder! Beer and Guitars. These facts may not be the worst things seen during apartheid, but I think they are things we can all relate to. Imagine going out on a Friday night and drinking a beer that your government had designed to make you infertile.

In the 1940's, the Afrikaner National Movement gained power and the laws of apartheid became further entrenched. simple things, like the freedom to choose which bench you sat on and which bus to take were not allowed for black and coloured people. I remember Mr. Rooth, my year five primary teacher telling me that when he was in South Africa, even the beaches were segregated and the non-whites were given areas that were known to be shark breeding grounds.

Protests at the Government ensued from the 1950's onwards,such as the Civil Disobedience movement, which aimed to make South Africa ungovernable. These were, for the record, peaceful. The move to direct and violent action came when the peaceful protests turned; guns used against unarmed citizens. The Sharpeville Massacre was one such protest, where people had decided to demand arrest in order to fill jails and force the Government to re-write legislation. A large crowd gathered at the police station; they fired and killed 69 people and injured 180.

Resistance, often led by the youth, had gained strength by 1985, which led to many of the townships becoming ungovernable. The Government declared a state of emergency, which gave them extra powers and created further violent struggles. By the end of the 1980's a political deadlock had been reached; but it was 1989 that put South Africa on the road to democracy. F.W de Clerk unbanned political groups that had opposed apartheid. He released political prisoners, including Mandela and began negotiations for a New South Africa with the ANC and others. While the talks were underway, a further 14,00 people were killed in political violence. The National Party , the ANC and other political parties eventually agreed to hold an election; the Democratic election in the history of the country. The ANC with Mandela leading won. The rest is, as they say, history.

Or is it? Although apartheid is no longer written into legislation, there still seems to be tensions between ethnic groups in some areas. Not suprising when you consider what you have read so far.......

11: Johannesburg and SOWETO

Today we had a tour of inner city Johannesburg. Far from being the city of nightmares it is a vibrant and lively place, full of colour. In the times of apartheid, the areas we visited were all white, but now, a white face is unusual to see. It is heatwarming to know that black people from Johannesberg have reclaimed the area from their opressors. We were told that many white business owners abandoned their premises when apartheid finished in the 1990's, due to high levels of crime; sadly this has left huge office blocks empty and decaying. I've mentioned balance before.... there's so many hints that balance has shifted, but that the scales aren't yet equal.

We also visited Soccer City; the place where the first and last games of the recent world cup were held. It was difficult for me to follow, as I'm sure everyone knows I am not a football fan. The stadium is amazing and holds 90,000 people! Apparently it was designed in such a way that it takes 7 1/2 minutes to empty! The one fact I did take away from Soccer City was that the place is kitted out with recycled car tyre carpets, so I am a big fan! I also used the loo in Team B's changing room. I've no idea who was on team B, but it's a new claim to fame.

We chatted to our guide about the world cup and how it has affected him; he said that he was proud to have it in the country but that it had not benefited him in the way he had hoped. For exapmle; he is a SOWETO guide, but for the world cup, guides were brought from Cape Town to do SOWETO tours. He also said that Fifa banned street sellers from the areas outside the statium, which did not go down well. The stadium cost 3.4 billion to make and in a country with such poverty, that may be difficult to stomach. Having thought about it long and hard, I have decided that the legacy of the world cup is probably more important than the direct impacts of it. Okay, it cost billions, but football really is a universal language and this stadium put South Africa of the map and gave the nation something to be proud of. It also unified the people of South Africa for the first time anyone can remember. That has to be a good thing.... let's hope it continues momentum, or it will have been a travesty.

We visited SOWETO today. SOWETO stands for South Western Townships;the place that black and coloured people were moved to when apartheid was in full swing. The black resisidents of Johannesberg were originally moved to a place called Sophiatown.There are four million people in SOWETO, in an area 30 km square. It's a busy place.

On arrival in SOWETO, we had lunch in a shebeen, only unlike the one in Langa, Cape Town, this one has been developed for the tourist trade. The food was amazing, even the tripe, which, to be frank, looked revolting. In the Shebeen, we had a little music from a band called Milotones, or something similar. I will upload a short video when I have bought some more internet credit!

After lunch, we walked through SOWETO, we saw the memorial to Hector Peterson. (Look at the back left of the photo above). Hector Peterson was a thirteen year old boy who was shot by the authorities in what is now known as the SOWETO uprising of 1976. The SOWETO uprising was designed as a peaceful student protest at the governments decision to educate students in Afrikaans; not even the second language for many. The people did not agree with the choice of language, so staged a demonstration. Unfortunately the authorities got wind of the plans and appeared in their masses, killing 600 people and injuring 1,200. No one is certain who started the violence, but the authorities had guns and shot Hector. Our tour followed the trail of violence and we learned much about the student uprisings. We visited a church, where I stepped inside to hear the choir practice, we saw Mandela's house, which has been turned into an attraction; cashing in on his name. We saw Desmond Tutu's house too; he still spends time there when he is not on the Cape.

The day has been an emotional one; to imagine that people are capable of such horrific violence. 

10: Swazliland to Johannesburg

Today has been another mammoth day. We left Swaziland at about ten this morning and spent the remainder of the day on the bus to Johannesburg. How can sitting down make me so sleepy?

It was wonderful to see the changes in landscape as we travelled the two countries. Border controll took and age, but it was worth it for the comofrt of the bed I'm in now! There is not really much to say about the journey, aside it being long, so look at a few pictures I took along the way instead.

A craft market in Swaziland.

We were pulled over for a permit inspection. Permit? What permit?

Johannesburg by night. (View from hotel wondow!!).

9: Trade Unions and the E.U in Swaziland

Never eating steak again. Prophecy was correct and I am glad I had the foresight to stock up on medicines. Bleurgh.

This morning, we visited a trade union premises. I can not write about it here, it's too sensitive. Lives are at risk. Suffice it to say I learnt some truly abhorrent things about human right abuses and use the opportunity to once again push the positives about ethical trade.

This afternoon, we went to visit the European Union delegation in Swaziland, where we managed to subject the two poor civil servants to a proper grilling. It is good to know that the E.U are in Swaziland, pushing for things to be done correctly, although I sympathised with them having to answer questions like those pertaining to the country's relationship with Zimbabwe.

This evening, we met with two more amazing people; both involved in unions. I still am unable to come to terms with the lack of freedom in this country. You must not speak against the King, but many do and are willing to risk the clink for it. It seems that the more I talk to people, the more I wonder what kind of a man the King is. I am searching for something good to put in, to keep it balanced, but I can not say one person has said anything good.  Not one thing. Not one. 

8: SWAPOL

Today we visited community program instigated by SWAPOL; Swaziland for Positive Living. SWAPOL was established in 2001 by five H.I.V positive women after they had experienced stigma and discrimination from family and community members. Currently SWAPOL has over 1000 members; people living with H.I.V /AIDS ion over 30 communities. SWAPOL's mission is to provide support to improve the quality of life for those suffering.

It was fabulous to see community projects in action. Our first stop was a project which focused on the propagation and nurturing of seedlings and seems to be run mostly by women. The man who took us on the tour explained that the seeds are tended by HIV positive women in the community, who visit once or twice a day to water the plants; mostly beetroot, spinach and cabbage. The project was born from the advice that people suffering from H.I.V should eat a balanced diet. Not only do these ladies grow seedlings, but they also make and sell a type of vaseline, which contains Aloe and is in demand for skin complaints. It was really positive to see the impact the scheme was having on people.

The second stop of the day was to a children's ''feeding station''; where children with difficult family situations can go and play and eat. This is again run by women suffering with H.I.V and is for children suffering with H.I.V. We were welcomed by a chorus sung by the children; awfully they had to sing it twice, as we were being briefed of giving out food. I didn't participate in that, instead, I sat quietly outside the room, waiting for the kids to approach me. A lovely young girl came and sat with me. I played with a toddler. The children were all brilliantly fun and were happy to get stuck into running rings around us all. It would be selfish of me to feel sad for these children, as they were all so happy; most are too young to understand the troubles they will face as they grow old, if they grow old. Mother to child transmission of H.I.V is the most common form of infection in Swaziland. They were happy and normal children and poverty and health did not come into the equation for me; just big inquisitive eyes and infectious giggles, from most anyway. I felt very bad for scaring one small man; I think I am the first white person he had ever seen as he kept looking and pointing, then crying and hiding his face. Poor thing; apparently, those who have seen pale people before have seen them when the give injections, so I guess the little lad was quite justified in his fear.

I realised again today that I'm a little different from the rest of the group; I noticed the ticks on the animals that were freely mingling about. I knew what they were. I don't have any. 

And I got my suitcase back, but, to be honest, I don't think I would have noticed if it had not. After seeing so many children living in such poverty, my bag makes me feel a bit uneasy. Nice to have some deodorant though I guess. We ended the day with the worst meal I have ever eaten; steak (animal indeterminate) which took over an hour and a half to prepare. I think I may be poorly tomorrow.

7: Swaziland....

Super fast background info:

41; The average life expectancy
26 - 40%; population infected with H.I.V
69% : Population living on less than $1 per day.
20% : Unemployment, although sources suggest much higher.
77% : population living in rural areas.

Swaziland is a former British protectorate, now ruled by an Absolute Monarchy. By that, I mean that the Kings' word is LAW. Political parties are banned and the suppression of terrorism act means that if you hack-off an official, they can accuse you of terrorism and arrest you. You may never leave prison; you might die first. The King is very wealthy and is able to keep his 14 wives in sumptuous conditions while his people starve. Lovely.

Today I awoke at a quarter to three. It seems early, but thanks to working as a Marine Officer at MMO, I am fairly used to getting up in the wee hours for work. We flew to Johannesburg and then on to Manzini. A tiny plane, flying over rust red mountains and snaking yellow paths.

It is hot here, very hot.

On arrival in Swaziland, the first thing I noticed was the smell of the heat, of warm earth and scented air. The second thing I noticed was that my suitcase was not at the airport. Yes ladies and gents, my bag is not with me and I have no idea where it is! I spoke to the guys at the airport who asked me lots of questions about it and twelve hours on, still no sign. I am hopeful that it will arrive and I will have something clean to wear at some point. I was savvy enough to pack a little stuff in my flight bag, but despite protests that I didn't really need to buy anything,  a couple of us went into town. I'm glad I did! Wow. The trip into town was amazing; such hustle and bustle, such a marked difference in the cost of things. I bought a really beautiful skirt for a fiver, but I'm not sure yet if what I paid is a lot here. I think it will be. It was a real eye opener being in town; there were four of us and we were the only white people there. It wasn't intimidating at all, even with open staring. A few nods of hello and a tiny child unable to look away, staring right at me.... perhaps I'm the first blue eyed person he's seen. I bought some things that will make me feel more at ease if my case never arrives....okay, I bought two skirts and a pair of pants. Just in case. In case.... get it?

The day was unusual, as the people we had arranged to meet were unable to come due to the week of action that is happening in Swaziland next week. Swaziland has a really interesting culture, which is at times, very difficult to stomach. It is ruled by an absolute monarchy, which means that the king (who is 42) is in charge of everything. Literally everything. Political parties are banned; anyone openly displaying political affirmations (and many who do not) may be arrested on suspicion of terrorism. Voicing views against the king is outlawed. Intimidation and violence is rife. 69% of the population live on less than $1 per day, (that skirt was a weeks wages) yet the king is able to keep somewhere between 14 and 25 wives in a life of luxury. Swaziland has the highest rate of H.I.V and AIDS in the whole word, with figures between 26 and 40% of the population being infected. It's bad here, bad and corrupt, but very beautiful and so far, the people are lovely.

The evening was the most notable part of the day. We were lucky enough to have dinner with individuals who are involved in the struggle for democracy. I shall not name them for fear of putting them in danger, but they are seriously inspirational people. I sat next to a chap for diner, who was once a student, but had to give up his studies after being thrown in jail for two months for daring to mention something the King did not like. I spoke at great length with another chap about the way forward for the Swazi people and how we can help them. He told me that he wants to retain a monarchy, but that decisions on things like health and education should have input from the people and the only way to get that is to empower the people. We spoke about how you and me, the international community, could help. He said we need to raise awareness so that when protests are made, the Swazi people know they have the support of people outside their nation. When student activists are being beaten to death by Police for wearing a political t'shirt, the least we can do is support people who are struggling against it.

After the political chat, I had a language lesson and jeez am I bad. There is a sound in the Swazi language (the name if which I can not spell) that is particular to Africa. A series of clicks, apparently handed down from the San people, the original Africans. Although I recognise I am dreadful, I tried and managed to cause laughter around the table. I am certain I will get there eventually, if I try hard enough. (Just so you know mum, I checked I wasn't accidentally swearing and I am ok this time!).

The evening was somewhat spoiled by the appearance of a very very rude white South African, who started shouting when the restaurant phone was ringing. It rang and rang and rang and eventually, I answered it at is was playing the devil with my hearing aid. To summarise, I got a bit of male chauvinism, spun into school mistress mode and gave the chap a telling off. All was quiet, until he started arguing with someone on his table and threw a chair, which broke. Idiot. Security was called and one of the gents we were having dinner with decided that he had not been locked up for treason for years to have some young upstart ruin it for us. We all got an apology, idiot man got the choice of cells or hotel house arrest and chose house arrest.

We all went to the bar. I needed a break, so decided to leave the tourist table and summon the inner barmaid and chat to the blokes propping up the bar. One of them runs a company making plastic bags in South Africa. He was lovely, because he allowed me to question him on the environmental side of his business and took the banter about corporate responsibility. I asked him about recycling, he said he prints messages on his bags. I asked him about bio-plastics, he said that his customers do not want it because it costs more. I asked him what the future is; he said that South Africa is not really ready for that. I told him he was wrong. As it turns out,  said man was happy to share his experiences of being a white South African. Before I go further, I should explain that colour and race are so entrenched in society, that to understand anything about South Africa, one has to name races. Coloured, black, Asian, white; although I feel uncomfortable talking in terms of race, that is my prejudice, as here it is the normal terminology used to describe people. Anyways, this white South African man was happy to share the banter and happy for me to ask about apartheid and how it had affected him. He said he feels in the minority being white, but that it does not bother him as he has a thriving business. I asked him about his labour; he employs 85 black staff in a total of 94. I asked if it was because his labour was menial and no, it is because they work hard and he likes all of his staff. They refer to him as the white man, but that is used in an affectionate way. Some drive company cars and some have had extra help from him in putting their children through school. Often accused of being cynical, I delved further into his views and say that I believe he was telling the truth. Blunt and to the point, he answered all of my questions. He also told me that he can not abide the King of Swaziland; that he is corrupt and possibly a bit mad. Apparently, the youngest of his wives is 14, which, said South African man insists is plain child abuse and can not be hidden under shrouds of cultural differences. I admired his candidness.

It has been a bit of a day of it what with the nausea caused by my anti malarials. Sleep now!